知名Antiques品牌Miriam Haskell珠宝
Miriam Haskell jewellery
Vintage ads. Miriam Haskell jewellery
米里亚姆-哈斯克尔珠宝
1899年7月1日,米里亚姆-哈斯克尔出生于印第安纳州泰勒市的一个俄罗斯犹太移民家庭,是美国著名的珠宝商。她在芝加哥大学学习了三年。事实上,她并不是一个专业的设计师或珠宝商,但凭借她良好的品味和微妙的直觉,哈斯克尔准确地判断出一个珠宝设计师的潜力。她只是在这方面有天赋。哈斯克尔珠宝反映了创新设计,很少复制珠宝的形式,这部分解释了公司与演艺界、私人客户和收藏家的关系。
值得注意的是,哈斯克尔珠宝经常在舞台和电影中首次亮相。Florence Ziegfeld为 "Ziegfeld Folies "购买了她的装饰品,电影明星Lucille Ball和Joan Crawford、Gloria Vanderbilt以及温莎公爵夫人都佩戴过她的珠宝。此外,她的装饰品经常出现在电视节目和百老汇音乐剧中,如《歌剧魅影》。
Miriam Haskell jewellery
Born into a family of Russian-Jewish immigrants, July 1, 1899, Tell City, Indiana, Miriam Haskell was a famous American jeweler. She studied in Chicago University for three years. In fact, she wasn’t a professional designer or jeweler, but with her good taste and subtle intuition, Haskell accurately determined the potential of a jewelry designer. She just got a talent in it. Haskell jewelry reflects innovative design and very rarely replicate the form of jewelry, which partly explains the relationship of the company with show business, private clients and collectors.
Noteworthy, Haskell jewelry often made its debut on the stage and in films. Florence Ziegfeld bought her decorations for the “Ziegfeld Folies”, movies stars Lucille Ball and Joan Crawford, Gloria Vanderbilt and the Duchess of Windsor wore her jewels. Besides, her decoration often appeared on television shows, Broadway Musicals, such as “Phantom of the Opera”.
Fabulous Miriam Haskell jewellery
1924年,她怀揣着500美元来到纽约,两年后在一家著名的酒店 "McAlpine "开设了她的第一家珠宝店。1926年,她在西57街开设了她的第二家珠宝精品店。弗兰克-赫斯在同一年加入了她的生意,两人一起工作,直到米莉亚离开公司。1930年代,公司搬到了第五大道392号。她并不昂贵的艺术珠宝作品即使在大萧条时期也很受欢迎,米里亚姆-哈斯克尔在萨克斯第五大道和伯丁公司,在迈阿密和伦敦开设了专卖店。
米里亚姆-哈斯克尔的成功事业发生在1920-40年代。她为美国制作的珠宝与她同时代的可可-香奈儿为巴黎制作的珠宝一样:为衣着光鲜的女士们创造珠宝,她们将珠宝和服装的时尚趋势结合在一起。
在哈斯克尔使用的所有高品质材料中,珍珠占据了一个特殊的位置--白色、粉色、棕色、香槟色和各种灰色的色调。最受欢迎的项链--由一串或多串不同颜色的人造珍珠组成:白色和香槟色,粉红色和灰色--到深棕色,与高质量的材料相结合,如穆拉诺玻璃,法国玻璃的成型和铸造,最小的珍珠和粉红色与Montanit精巧的扣子。哈斯克尔项链是经典风格的例子。
风格化的玻璃和金属哈斯克尔耳环是古老的镀金金属、仿珍珠和半透明的粉红色Montanit的经典组合。最受欢迎的哈斯克尔耳环和胸针是以1940-50年代的经典设计制作的。
In 1924 with $500 in her pocket, she moved to New York and two years later opened her first jewelry store in a prestigious hotel “McAlpine”. In 1926 she opened her second jewelry boutique at West 57th Street. Frank Hess joined her business the same year, the two worked together until Miriam left the company. In the 1930s, the company moved to 392 Fifth Avenue. Her not expensive art jewelry pieces were popular even during the Great Depression, Miriam Haskell opened boutiques at Saks Fifth Avenue and Burdine’s, in Miami and London.
A successful career of Miriam Haskell took place in 1920-1940’s. She made for the U.S. the same as her contemporary Coco Chanel for Paris: created the jewelry for well-dressed ladies, who joined the fashion trends in jewelry and clothing in a single complex.
Of all the high-quality materials used by Haskell, a special place had pearls – white, pink, brown, champagne, and various shades of gray. The most popular necklaces – of one or more strands of artificial pearls in different colors: white and champagne, pink and gray – to dark brown, with a combination of high quality materials such as Murano glass, molded and cast of French glass, the smallest pearls and pink with Montanit finely crafted clasps. Haskell necklaces are examples of classic style.
Stylized glass and metal Haskell earrings is the classic combination of old gilded metal, faux pearls and translucent pink Montanit. Most popular Haskell earrings and brooches are made in a classic design of 1940-1950s.
至于手镯,大多数是由黄金或镀金银制成的--镀金的仿古金属与人造珍珠和饱和颜色的玻璃珠子。在有胸针或耳环的情况下,价格会增加。
米莉亚-哈斯克尔的胸针是金属和水晶的复杂组合。最喜欢的图案 - 花、蔬菜和贝壳。还有动物、乌龟和异国鸟类的小雕像。叶子--是哈斯克尔珠宝中不断出现的主题。
每颗珠子、每颗水晶、每颗珍珠都是用手捡起来的,用手拉到复杂的铜丝背上,最后再背到第二根铜丝上,掩盖了其结构的任何痕迹。一件作品可能需要长达3天的时间来制作。
1937年俄亥俄州发生水灾时,哈斯克尔向新奥尔巴尼送去了满满一箱的救灾物资,并在灾后回家协助。在第二次世界大战中,她为战争做出了最认真的贡献,并要求赫斯使用天然材料和塑料来创造新的爱国主义无金属珠宝设计。
As for bracelets, most of them are made of gold or gold-plated silver – plated antique metal with artificial pearls and glass beads of saturated colors. In the presence of brooches or earrings price increases.
Brooches by Miriam Haskell are complex compositions of metal and crystal. Favorite motifs – flower, vegetable and seashells. There are figurines of animals, turtles and exotic birds. Leaves – are constantly occurring motif in Haskell jewelry.
Each bead, each crystal, each pearl is picked up by hand, hand-wired to an intricate brass filigree backing, and ultimately backed to a second filigree, concealing any trace of its construction. One piece may take as long as three days to create.
When Ohio flooded in 1937, Haskell sent boxcars full of relief materials to New Albany, and traveled home to assist during the disaster. In World War Two, she contributed most conscientiously to the war effort, and asked Hess to create new patriotic metal-free jewelry designs, using natural materials and plastics.
米里亚姆-哈斯克尔的珠宝
米里亚姆-哈斯克尔于1981年去世,享年82岁。在《米里亚姆-哈斯克尔珠宝》一书中,拥有俄罗斯姓氏的复古珠宝爱好者希拉-帕姆菲洛夫写道:"很明显,她的梦想的遗产经过几十年的过滤,一直延续下来。那是一个男人的世界。设计师是男人。公司的老板是男人。员工是男人。销售员是男人。这都是男人。然后你有可可-香奈儿,她直接跳了出来,还有其他几位女性在这个世界上开辟了自己的利基。哈斯克尔也做到了这一点。"
Miriam Haskell jewellery
Miriam Haskell died in 1981 at age 82. In the book “Miriam Haskell Jewelry” vintage jewelry lover with Russian family name Sheila Pamfiloff writes, “Obviously, the legacy of her dream has filtered on down through the decades. It was a man’s world. Designers were men. The owners of companies were men. The staff was men. The salesmen were men. It was all men. And then you had Coco Chanel, who just jumped right out there, and a couple of other women who carved out their own niche in the world. Haskell did that, too.”
Hollywood actress Joan Crawford in a breastplate jewelry by Haskell
在上面的照片中--好莱坞女演员琼-克劳馥佩戴着米里亚姆-哈斯克尔珠宝。从1930年代初到1960年代末,她定期购买了30年。在她去世前一年,即1978年,克劳福德无与伦比的收藏品在纽约的广场艺术馆被拍卖。
In the above photo – Hollywood actress Joan Crawford wearing Miriam Haskell jewellery. She regularly bought it for 30 years, from the early 1930s to the late 1960s. A year before her death, in 1978, Crawford’s unsurpassed collection was auctioned at the Plaza Art Gallery in New York.
Unique Haskell jewellery
Large earrings
Beautiful earrings of rhinestones and crystals
Beautiful earrings
Exquisite earrings, 1970s
Leaf and flowers earrings
Chandelier earrings
Rose earrings
Stunning earrings
A pair of earrings
Crystal bracelet
Art bracelet
Metal, gilding, pearls, Montanite. 1950, 17 cm. £ 700-800 SUM
Coral and pearl beads, white metal, 1950, £ 700-800 SUM
Charming bracelet
Artificial pearls, 1940’s. £ 165-200
Brooch: metal, gilding, engraving, filigree, glass cabochons. 1940s
Pearl and glass cabochons brooch
Gold tone metal and pearl ring
small pearls, metal, gilding, montanite, artificial pearls. 1940s
Crystals and pearls Hair Comb
Beautiful Hair Comb
Traditionally, Haskell necklaces are examples of classic style
Classic style necklace
1940s necklace
Jewelry of ancient gilded metal and artificial pearls. Necklace1960’s. £ 180-200
High jewelry art – Miriam Haskell necklace
Stylish black ring with rhinestones
Floral ring
Wreath ring of golden leaves and pearls
A ring of metal, artificial pearls and crystals
Autumn leaves ring
Richly decorated with pearls, crystals and stones ring
Black crystal rhinestones ring
Bow brooch
A set of parure, brooch, earrings and pendant
Vintage clips, 1950s
1950s brooch and earrings, artificial pearl, jewelry alloy of yellow color. £ 300-335 ROX
Brooch, leaves and suspensions of amber glass. 1930s. £ 280 SUM
Charming Earrings covered with silver, filigree, length 10 cm. 1970s
Brooch and earrings, 1940s
Flower brooch and earrings. 1960s. Gold-plated metal, artificial pearls, montanite, glass beads. £ 170-200
Made in 1950s earrings – artificial pearls, rhinestones. £ 300
Most Haskell brooches are complex compositions of metal and crystals. Favorite motive – floral
Pearl earrings and brooch, 1960s
Vintage earrings and clips
Blue Necklace and earrings, Robert F. Clark. Rock crystal on silver-coated metal. 1965. £ 800-900
Exquisite Haskell jewellery